Watercraftperformance.com recently posted instructions on how to install cruise control to your iEquipped Sea-Doo watercraft. We wanted to feature this instructional post to provide advice to our Sea-Doo OnBoard family. Thanks to WatercraftPerformance.com for this informative post!
When people talk about “bells and whistles,” at least in the way of personal watercraft, it’s typically cruise control they’re talking about. Cruise control is a great feature that so many of us aren’t used to on a PWC that its often considered a superfluous option, like a backup camera or fuzzy dice.
Only when using your watercraft for long distance rides, cruises through areas with stretches of limited speeds (everyone who has traveled Florida’s St. John’s River knows what I’m talking about), or leisurely exploring your lake or river have realized that maybe cruise control ain’t all that bad after all.
One such enthusiast recognized this before bringing home their brand-new 2013 Sea-Doo RXT-X from America’s Motor Sports and opted to have BRP’s Cruise Control and Ski Module Kit installed. We followed along the installation process and were surprised how deceptively uncomplicated it truly was. But be warned, there’s quite a bit of wiring to be mastered in this installation, so if tangling with electronics is not your forte, then why not have your local shop or dealer tackle this.
The BRP Sea-Doo Cruise Control and Ski Module (Kit # 295 100 455) is designed to add cruise control and the ski towing options to all iControl-equipped runabouts and comes with all this equipment seen here.
Thankfully, the rear access panels in the S3 hull make wiring significantly easier. Start by disconnecting your battery, and follow each of the steps to wire your new harness into the existing factory plugs.
All iControl-equipped Sea-Doos (from 2009-on), are built in a modular fashion, meaning that parts and accessories can be added to or removed from all skis rather simply. This “parts bin” process helps to simplify assembly, reduce part numbers, reduce production costs and make working on them significantly easier. The iControl unit is a base foundation from which all levels of accessorized Sea-Doos are built upon.
In the case of this RXT-X, the sportier runabout came from the factory without cruise control. Expecting to take in some long hauls this season, this savvy buyer opted to have the cruise module installed – including the necessary Cruise button on the handlebars.
All work pertaining to electricity on your PWC should begin with disconnecting the battery cables. On this particular unit, the battery is found beneath the rear starboard access panel. The electrical component support is mounted to the battery holder with the diagnostic connector attached to it.
Don’t Get Your Wires Crossed
Remove the connector and pull the plastic plug from the socket, as you’ll be inserting a new wire terminal and your new harness. With your new wire installed into the diagnostic connector plug, you need to route your new harness wire along
For many, wiring is not for the faint of heart. Installation of the cruise control module requires wiring in a secondary harness with accompanying fuses. The fuse positions are marked out clearly in the instructions and require little more than some patience to get them all in place.
Next, you need to detach and uncover the fuse box. Following the diagram supplied in the kit by Sea-Doo (also found HERE), remove the seal plugs and bus bar to install your new wire terminals to complete the circuit from your connector to the fuse box. Be mindful to follow the specific plug orientations in the fuse box. A audible “click” will be made when a terminal is properly inserted.
Once the harness is wired into the connectors and the fuse box, the new module can be attached and plugged in. The module is held down tight with zip ties.
Once the fuse box is recovered and reinstalled,go back to your battery and reinstall the component support. reattach the diagnostic connector with a little big of dielectric grease to the module connector (input).
Now its time to install the Ski Module. Secure it to the battery support with a zip tie (check to make sure it won’t move), and apply some more dielectric grease to the module diagnostic connector, attaching it to the vehicle’s connector. (FYI, the new module’s connector can now be used for vehicle diagnostics instead of the standard connector.)
Getting a Grip On The Handlebar Control
Accessing the back of the gauge cluster requires only a flat screwdriver. Disconnect the connector plug to insert two more terminals to control the cruise module and communicate to the LCD display.
As the RXT-X (and likewise all GTX and RXT models) feature tilt steering that pivots the entire gauge cluster, accessing the back panel of the gauges requires opening up the front storage cover and moving the steering to its highest position. Using a flat screwdriver, unlock all of the plastic tabs careful to pry open the panel from the gauge support. With the panel off, disconnect the gauge cluster.
Since this has the X-Steering package, remove the top cover over the throttle. The locking tabs should unsnap from the lower housing. The kit replaces the factory switch cover, all you need to be mindful of is carefully unsnapping the throttle accelerator sensor (TAS) from the plastic tabs holding it down.
With the TAS unplugged and removed as well as the gauge control switch, route the new cruise control switch harness through the factory sheath. This new harness will connect the new cruise control button to the terminal connector that plugs into the back of the gauge cluster.
Next, install the two new pre-stripped wires into the back of the connector. Once the terminals are coated in dielectric grease, reconnect the plug to the gauge cluster. Now, install the cruise control switch to the housing, followed by reinstalling the gauge control switch and the TAS. Using the new X-Steering button cover, install the rubber button and the new cover (making sure that all the buttons align with the new cover).
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