Information for existing Sea-Doo owners. Designed to support owners and encourage Sea-Doo preventative maintenance and offer advice for applicable Sea-Doo watersports products

DOCTOR DOO – GOING INTO THE SEA-DOO SEASON FULLY CHARGED

Sea-Doo fully chargedThe 2013 summer boating season is upon us and Sea-Doo owners are preparing for a full summer of family fun on the water. As you are taking your beloved Sea-Doo watercraft or boat out of hibernation there are some technical aspects that Father time may have had his way with over the past few dormant months. Your battery is where it all starts (or doesn’t start) and batteries can and do lose their ability to maintain a charge over time but there is another crucial component that can also lose its charge, your mandatory fire extinguisher.

sea-doo battery

The beginning of the season is the time to check both of these essential items as both your Sea-Doo watercraft battery and fire extinguisher can lose their charge over the winter months of inactivity. Regardless of age, your battery should be given a full charge as step one in pre-season prep.  Be sure to remove the battery from the PWC to avoid gas fumes and possible fire, and set it on a cleared work bench. Connect a battery charger to the battery and let charge over night (please refer to owners manual for exact charging procedures).  Most modern battery chargers include “fully charged” indicator and this indicator should inform you if the battery is accepting the charge  - meaning the battery is still good – or not. If the battery is not accepting the charge or holding the charge and shows signs of being weak after a 6+ hour charge, it is time to replace it with a new Sea-Doo specific battery from an authorized BRP/Sea-Doo dealership. Be sure to bring your old battery with you to your dealership so it can be properly and responsibly disposed of.

Every PWC, including Sea-Doo watercraft, must carry a fully charged fire extinguisher onboard at all times. This is for not only your safety but potentially the safety of others.

Sea-Doo Fire ExtinguisherBut you may ask, “why?” Why do I need a fire extinguisher on a watercraft when I am going to be surrounded by water? That is a fair question. The answer is you never know what can happen during a day of boating. If something were to happen where there was an open flame while you were riding you would be able to extinguish it. Having a fully charged fire extinguisher on board can also be very helpful when encountering another vessel with an open flame situation. The Coast Guard and local boating law enforcement agencies check fire extinguishers to ensure they are up to date and fully charged. The best rule of thumb is, if your fire extinguisher doesn’t have an actual pressure gauge, is to replace it every year.

Sea-Doo Safety KitAnd while we are discussing safety the Sea-Doo Safety Kit can also help you in, or out of, an unexpected situation. In case your friend didn’t replace his older battery the kit includes a whistle that he can use to let you know he needs you to tow him back to shore with the buoyant 50′ nylon rope that is also included in the kit.  The Sea-Doo Safety Kit also includes a flashlight to help inspect the engine compartment and the container can be used as a bailer.

These three items should be first on your todo list when preparing your Sea-Doo for the coming season and all three products can be purchased at an authorized BRP/Sea-Doo dealer. Check the Doctor Doo column of OnBoard for regular maintenance, service, and DIY tips to ensure you get the greatest reliability and most fun from your Sea-Doo watercraft.

 

 

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Dr. Doo Guest Post: Installing Cruise Control to your iEquipped Sea-Doo

Watercraftperformance.com recently posted instructions on how to install cruise control to your iEquipped Sea-Doo watercraft.  We wanted to feature this instructional post to provide advice to our Sea-Doo OnBoard family.  Thanks to WatercraftPerformance.com for this informative post!

When people talk about “bells and whistles,” at least in the way of personal watercraft, it’s typically cruise control they’re talking about. Cruise control is a great feature that so many of us aren’t used to on a PWC that its often considered a superfluous option, like a backup camera or fuzzy dice.

Only when using your watercraft for long distance rides, cruises through areas with stretches of limited speeds (everyone who has traveled Florida’s St. John’s River knows what I’m talking about), or leisurely exploring your lake or river have realized that maybe cruise control ain’t all that bad after all.

One such enthusiast recognized this before bringing home their brand-new 2013 Sea-Doo RXT-X from America’s Motor Sports and opted to have BRP’s Cruise Control and Ski Module Kit installed. We followed along the installation process and were surprised how deceptively uncomplicated it truly was. But be warned, there’s quite a bit of wiring to be mastered in this installation, so if tangling with electronics is not your forte, then why not have your local shop or dealer tackle this.

Sea-Doo Cruise Control and Ski Module kit

The BRP Sea-Doo Cruise Control and Ski Module (Kit # 295 100 455) is designed to add cruise control and the ski towing options to all iControl-equipped runabouts and comes with all this equipment seen here.

Thankfully, the rear access panels in the S3 hull make wiring significantly easier. Start by disconnecting your battery, and follow each of the steps to wire your new harness into the existing factory plugs.

sea doo rear wiring installation

All iControl-equipped Sea-Doos (from 2009-on), are built in a modular fashion, meaning that parts and accessories can be added to or removed from all skis rather simply. This “parts bin” process helps to simplify assembly, reduce part numbers, reduce production costs and make working on them significantly easier. The iControl unit is a base foundation from which all levels of accessorized Sea-Doos are built upon.

In the case of this RXT-X, the sportier runabout came from the factory without cruise control. Expecting to take in some long hauls this season, this savvy buyer opted to have the cruise module installed – including the necessary Cruise button on the handlebars.

All work pertaining to electricity on your PWC should begin with disconnecting the battery cables. On this particular unit, the battery is found beneath the rear starboard access panel. The electrical component support is mounted to the battery holder with the diagnostic connector attached to it.

 

Don’t Get Your Wires Crossed

seadoo wiring, sea-doo wiring, intalling icontrol cruise control

Remove the connector and pull the plastic plug from the socket, as you’ll be inserting a new wire terminal and your new harness. With your new wire installed into the diagnostic connector plug, you need to route your new harness wire along

For many, wiring is not for the faint of heart. Installation of the cruise control module requires wiring in a secondary harness with accompanying fuses. The fuse positions are marked out clearly in the instructions and require little more than some patience to get them all in place.

Next, you need to detach and uncover the fuse box. Following the diagram supplied in the kit by Sea-Doo (also found HERE), remove the seal plugs and bus bar to install your new wire terminals to complete the circuit from your connector to the fuse box. Be mindful to follow the specific plug orientations in the fuse box. A audible “click” will be made when a terminal is properly inserted.

picture 4

 

Once the harness is wired into the connectors and the fuse box, the new module can be attached and plugged in. The module is held down tight with zip ties.

Once the fuse box is recovered and reinstalled,go back to your battery and reinstall the component support. reattach the diagnostic connector with a little big of dielectric grease to the module connector (input).

Now its time to install the Ski Module. Secure it to the battery support with a zip tie (check to make sure it won’t move), and apply some more dielectric grease to the module diagnostic connector, attaching it to the vehicle’s connector. (FYI, the new module’s connector can now be used for vehicle diagnostics instead of the standard connector.)

 

Getting a Grip On The Handlebar Control

picture 5

Accessing the back of the gauge cluster requires only a flat screwdriver. Disconnect the connector plug to insert two more terminals to control the cruise module and communicate to the LCD display.

As the RXT-X (and likewise all GTX and RXT models) feature tilt steering that pivots the entire gauge cluster, accessing the back panel of the gauges requires opening up the front storage cover and moving the steering to its highest position. Using a flat screwdriver, unlock all of the plastic tabs careful to pry open the panel from the gauge support. With the panel off, disconnect the gauge cluster.

Since this has the X-Steering package, remove the top cover over the throttle. The locking tabs should unsnap from the lower housing. The kit replaces the factory switch cover, all you need to be mindful of is carefully unsnapping the throttle accelerator sensor (TAS) from the plastic tabs holding it down.

With the TAS unplugged and removed as well as the gauge control switch, route the new cruise control switch harness through the factory sheath. This new harness will connect the new cruise control button to the terminal connector that plugs into the back of the gauge cluster.

Next, install the two new pre-stripped wires into the back of the connector. Once the terminals are coated in dielectric grease, reconnect the plug to the gauge cluster. Now, install the cruise control switch to the housing, followed by reinstalling the gauge control switch and the TAS. Using the new X-Steering button cover, install the rubber button and the new cover (making sure that all the buttons align with the new cover).

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DR. DOO – KEEP YOUR SEA-DOO COVERED

cover1

As spring has arrived for most of the northern hemisphere, Sea-Doo owners are prepping their watercraft and boats for the upcoming boating season and removing the shrink wrap and storage covers. We are sure it brings a smile across your face to uncover your Sea-Doo after a long winter hibernation. This is the time to give it a good wash and pre-season service to ensure everything is loose where it is supposed to be loose and tight where components are supposed to be tight.

After you go through the process of getting it ready for the season…cover it back up.

Screen Shot 2013-04-24 at 9.42.54 AMWe know just the sight of of your Sea-Doo brings joy to your heart but keeping it covered will bring that joy for a long time to come. With the arrival of spring comes more intense sun, and though all BRP products are engineered to withstand UV rays, the sun is powerful and exposure can manipulate colors and can dry materials over time.  Also, you may have heard of the term, “April showers bring May flowers”. This is great for your garden but not in the footwells of your watercraft. Covering your watercraft will also keep out any animals that may be looking for a place to nest.

To ensure your Sea-Doo is protected from the outside world and kept clean, utilize a custom fitted Sea-Doo watercraft cover. Whether your Sea-Doo is kept on a dock hoist, on a trailer on the side of the house, or in the resort parking lot BRP offers a form fitting cover. These covers are designed to securely wrap around the bond rail on the hull side, hold secure on the handlebars, and clip onto the rub rail holding it in place while trailering at speed.

Bottom line, when you are not on your Sea-Doo, keep it nice and tucked in by covering it up with the proper cover.

cover2

This installment of Dr. Doo was provided by Willy Carmine of Route 1 Motorsports, the official BRP/Sea-Doo/Can-Am dealer in Brevard County, Florida

 

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Dr. Doo: Pre-Season Fuel System Care

2013 Sea-Doo GTX Ltd iS-Action7 resized for blog

As we get closer and closer to spring, many of you are getting ready to get back out on the water.  Presuming that you conducted proper winterization and are working on pre-season preparation techniques, now it is time to ensure that your Sea-Doo is primed and ready for use.

If your Sea-Doo has been in storage for more than two months, we recommend taking the time to ensure your fuel system is clean and in good shape so that your first ride back on the water is exactly the ride you’ve been dreaming of!

Before you stored your watercraft, we hope you followed winterizing or storage procedures and are starting with a full tank of gas.  These procedures can be modified depending on your starting fuel level.

Steps to fuel system care:

1. Verify fuel system: Check fuel hoses for leaks and damaged hose clamps. If you smell fuel you will need to trace the source of the leak using your hands and/or fingers.  Ensure you inspect your fuel cap for cracks or leaks.

brp fuel stabilizer2. Add a fuel stabilizer to the tank, we recommend BRP’s Fuel Stabilizer, Part No. 413408601, 8 oz.  This stabilizer will help prevent fuel contamination and residue build up in carburetor, fuel injection system and gas lines.  This stabilizer should always be used before storing your watercraft for a long period of time and is suitable for all gasoline engines. If you do not have a full tank, we recommend adding the stabilizer before you fill your tank.

3. After you add fuel stabilizer, fill the gas tank completely.  The primary reason is to ensure no water is inside the fuel tank from condensation build up during storage. Should any water be trapped inside the fuel tank, severe damage could occur to the fuel system.  When fueling, be sure to keep the watercraft on a level surface.  Do not overfill or top off the fuel tank and leave the watercraft in the sun. When temperatures increase fuel expands and this could cause the gasoline to overflow.

Don’t forget about ECO mode when you are maintaining your Sea-Doo fuel system. ECO mode is an exclusive feature of Sea-Doo watercraft that helps you stay out on the water longer by automatically determining the most economical power delivery for the greatest fuel economy.

Once you have cleaned and protected your fuel system, you are ready for the first ride of the season!

 

 

 

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Dr. Doo: Tips for Pre-Season Preparation of your Sea-Doo Watercraft

Spring is in the air.  The flowers are beginning to bloom, the water is warming up and it is just about time to get your Sea-Doo back out on the water.  As you get prepared for that first ride, there are a few things you can do to your Sea-Doo personal watercraft to ensure optimum performance on the water.

If you winterized your watercraft you should be able to quickly get out on the water with minimal preparation. If you live in a warmer climate, or did not fully winterize your watercraft, we recommend following these steps before hitting the water.

Suggested items needed

  1. XPS 4-stroke maintenance and oil change kit (This kit includes XPS oil, oil filter, three NGK spark plugs and instruction sheet) Part number: 295501075
  1. XPS PWC cleaning and detail kitPart number: 219701715

Notes:

•Always refer to your Sea-Doo owners manual

•Visit this link for information on proper battery charging – http://www.sea-doo.com/onboard/2012/12/26/doctor-doo-keeping-your-battery-charged/

•Visit this link for information on proper spark plug maintenance – http://www.sea-doo.com/onboard/2011/11/16/doctordoo-sparkplug-install-tips/

Instructions

•Inspect all fuel and water lines for cracks or damage. Replace or visit your local Sea-Doo dealer to have replaced.

•Check all electrical connections for damage or build up. Repair or clean before starting watercraft for the first time.

•If you did not change the oil and oil filter before winterizing, be sure to change it during the de-winterizing process.

•Check and change your spark plugs if necessary. There is the possibility they developed residue or moisture over the winter.

•Make sure your battery has been properly charged and reinstall the battery into  your Sea-Doo watercraft.

•Check all controls (steering, steering cable, throttle, throttle cable and iBR, lever) for proper movement to ensure they don’t stick. Lubricate any of these controls if they do not move freely.

•Connect your Sea-Doo watercraft up to the hose, start the engine and run for no longer then two minutes, this will ensure everything is running properly.

•Also it is never a bad thing to clean and detail your Sea-Doo watercraft before the season.  This steps helps to prevent sun damage and contaminates in the water while also providing that show room sparkle all season long.

Do you have any additional steps that you take prior to hitting the water for that first big ride of the season? If so, please share them with us.

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DOCTOR DOO – Keeping Your Battery Charged

Many of you have already stored your Sea-Doo for the winter, or are in the process of storing your Sea-Doo.  A very important aspect of winterization is battery maintenance.  Proper storage techniques can be make the difference between a dead battery or a battery that roars to life after a long winter’s slumber.

Reasons for keeping a constant charge

- It keeps the battery from being depleted from non-use.

- Help maintain battery life

- Battery is ready when you go to de-winterize your Sea-Doo watercraft.

Tools needed

-       Phillips head screwdriver, Flat head screw driver or 10mm nut driver

-       Trickle Charger (Sea-Doo carries the Yuasa smart shot automatic battery charger, part # 529035773. See your local dealer for details)

Important Note

-       Never charge or boost battery while installed in the watercraft

-       Always charge a battery in a well vented room

-       Always make sure trickle charger or battery charger is unplugged before connecting charger cables or before removing charger cables.

Instructions 

1.  Locate the battery in your Sea-Doo watercraft.

2.  Next take a look at the bolts that secure your battery cables to the battery and determine what tool must be used to remove the cables.

3.  Be sure to remove the negative (-) black cable first and make sure it does not come in contact with the battery or any other grounding component (such as any exposed hardware) during the next steps.

4.  Remove the positive (+) red cable from the battery.

5.  Disconnect the vent hose from battery.

6.  Install a piece of hose (same type as vent hose) with a cap or a small hose pincher onto the battery to prevent electrolyte spillage when removing the battery.

7.  Remove any straps or brackets that may be securing the battery into the battery tray.

8.  Remove the battery and place it on a workbench or something comparable. Be sure to place it out of the reach of children.

9.  Make sure your trickle charger is unplugged and then connect the charger to the battery, making sure the positive (+) red cable is hooked up to the positive end on the battery and the negative (-) black cable is hooked up to the negative end of the battery.

10.  Plug in the charger to a wall socket and you are ready to stay charged!

Additional instructions – If the battery terminals seem to have corrosion or rust of any sort, use a wire brush to remove before connecting to the charger.

The best way to maintain proper battery life is to keep a constant charge, so keep up on your battery maintenance to maintain that showroom like quality all year round.

 

 

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Doctor Doo: New Grips. Fresh Look. Fresh Feel.

Looking for a fresh look and feel for your Sea-Doo?  Simply changing your grips can help you maintain a firmer grip, renew your look and enjoy many hours out on the water.

Dr. Doo is back and offers his advice on how to change out your Sea-Doo grips.

 

Reasons for changing:

-After a long season or two, the harsh outdoor elements start to harden the stock rubber Sea-Doo grip and they become a bit slick.

- Some riders tend to wear down the grips after a long season or two.

-Simple project to get that new look back to your aging watercraft.

 

Tools needed:

-       Small flat head screw driver

-       10 mm socket and ratchet

-       Blue Loctite brand thread locker

-       Wire Brush

Parts needed:

-       Sea-Doo Handle grip set (see your local dealer or Sea-Doo PAC catalog online for part number)

Instructions:

1. Remove small rubber end from grip, use small flat head screwdriver to pry at the seam.

 

 

2. Remove 10mm bolt

 

3.  Slide old grip off.

4.   Slide new grip on with the flare of the grip facing forward. No glue is needed with Sea-Doo grips as they have a locking system.

5.  Clean the bolt that you remove of its original yellow thread locker with a wire brush, be sure to remove all of the yellow thread locker as you will be applying blue Loctite brand in its place.

6.  Apply blue Loctite on the first five threads

7.  Re insert the bolt.

8.  Insert rubber end plug to the grip.

 

In the end this not only helps maintain that Showroom look and feel, but also gives you that added grip you once had when you took your Sea-Doo out for its first ride.

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DOCTOR DOO: When Heavy Fog After Your Ride is GOOD!!

What happens after your day on the water can help ensure your next day on the water is trouble free. One of the most damaging things that can be overlooked on watercraft or boats is the simple act of proper engine “fogging” after usage.

Saltwater users pay extra attention! It’s simple to understand the need for this procedure when you consider its effect.

Have you ever parked you car, truck, etc. a block or so from the ocean yet still notice that haze on your windshield from the salt in the air?  Well, imagine your engine actually ingesting these tiny salt particles while running along that beautiful shoreline.

It’s a scary thing to think about. But rest easy, Doctor Doo is going to explain the procedure to address the effects.

While the ROTAX engine is running, all internal moving parts are getting their needed lubing via oils, fuels, etc. BUT how about the post ride coating of salt mist, or any water for that matter, that can cause rust, corrosion, and oxidation of all sorts? The post ride preventive maintenance is key to longevity and is simple if done regularly and using BRP’s high-quality XPS products.

When conducting your post ride rinsing, flushing and preventive maintenance, follow the owner’s manual instructions for your model when it comes to “ENGINE FOGGING”.  Two-strokes as well as four-strokes need this. On 4-TEC models it protects the critical parts including throttle bodies, intake valve stems, and the list goes on.

BRP service technicians have fixed many carburetors due to frozen throttle shafts that could have been simply avoided by a little XPS lube in the right place after usage.

Here is an example of the fogging port of the typical ROTAX 4-TEC Marine Engine:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next is the flame-arrestor on a 947 DI series 2-stroke:

 

Most all 2-Stroke Sea-Doo engines have the port  on the flame-arrestor. Just 4-5 seconds of spray before storing even for a couple of days makes a difference!

 

 

 

 

We strongly recommend using Sea-Doo XPS Anti-Corrosive Lubricant for this procedure. It is a true formulated fogging lubricant and one can should last a couple of seasons when used properly.

I hope this removes the fogging mysteries, myths and clears the air regarding this simple yet important procedure!

This edition of Doctor Doo comes from Glen Perry of Perry Performance Group renown as one of the leading Sea-Doo service centers the southeast United States and the world.


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DOCTOR DOO – The Right Dose of Wake Boost for Nick Taylor

We wouldn’t recommend that you take Nick Taylor’s advice for treating your flu like symptoms but we highly suggest taking his advice on the wake boost settings for wake skating behind the Sea-Doo 230 WAKE boat.

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DOCTOR DOO: Don’t Get “Steered” Wrong Sea-Doo Boaters

Detect, inspect, and adjust to ensure you are running in-line.

It has been a frequent question since 1994 when, then Bombardier, introduced their first Sea-Doo a

boat, the Speedster. The twin engined, twin direct drive water jet propelled machine was a new type of fun, and the family could come along too! Along with the new machine came some new mechanical layouts that differ from the standard PWC.

 

Most often PPG hears “Why won’t my boat go straight?” or “it really pulls to the left!” or to the right….

 

Well, it’s usually one or two things, sometimes as many as three elements that need to be addressed.

 

A simple Straight Edge can be used to determine is the steering nozzles are aligned or not aligned.

We’re showing a simple way, using a calibrated straight edge, to assure that the steering nozzles themselves are aligned. The steering nozzles, well, they steer, they are what ultimately what steers the boat by pushing the transom to one side or the other.

1. – This should be the first aspect to be inspected. Using the straight edge it should have contact in four places at the steering nozzles. If not, align by adjusting the connecting rod between the two nozzles, or have a certified Sea-Doo dealer do this for you. Once your nozzles are aligned, ensure your nozzles and steering wheel are straight. If they are not there are two adjustment points for the actual steering cable; one at the steering nozzle end and one at the steering wheel end. Before adjusting these points be sure to consult a official BRP/Sea-Doo Shop Manual or better yet, have a BRP certified technician do the adjustment.

 

2. – Propulsion system inspection, It is very difficult for most operators to *never* have a small stone, shell, or even a piece of floating hardwood (stick or twig) to not get processed through the rapidly spinning impellers due to the strong suction of the pumps intakes themselves (refer to our last Dr. Doo article).

A slight ding in an impeller can be the reason for the boat to start pulling one way or the other, even though they are at the same RPM’s and the throttles are perfectly synchronized.

3. – Synchronizing Throttles: synchronizing of RPM via the throttles, if you have twin throttles, is key.

Some shops say this can be done accurately without being in the water with said unit….it can’t. The reason is that the two individual pumps have to have INDENTICAL pump loads for this to work. Now when the impellers and impeller wear-rings are in new condition it is much more feasible for all things to be equal within the pump assemblies.

Once the alignment is complete, considering that the jet pumps and the impellers are in good matching shape, it is time to synchronize the throttles. This is best left to a certified Sea-Doo technician also. Patience and training make the whole process much easier, and it doesn’t cost a lot for it to be done correctly.

So when the local BRP dealer is telling you these things have to be *right*, for it to steer correctly, and keep the throttles aligned, they are telling it to you…straight.

Hopefully this has helped shed some light on what can be an aggravating issue.

No matter where your boating takes you, Florida, California, Minnesota, New York, Texas, Ontario, where ever, Long may you run, Dr. Doo

Glen Perry of Perry Performance Group provides this installment of Doctor Doo and is a fitting author as he has earned his PHD in Doo care as a 35+ year veteran of the powersports industry with the last 20 specializing in Sea-Doo product. Perry is also the creator of the popular Sea-Doo forum sea-doo.net

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